Busta4 - Fitting Instructions for external
Busta4 - Fitting Instructions for external ‘trailer mounting’
Busta 4.2 is designed for use by all 12 volt negative earth towing vehicles (known to LAB Electronics at the time of writing) that have been built to European lighting regulations and are towing trailers that have only one tail/licence plate lighting circuit and which do not require monitoring of the trailer’s turn signal LEDs. It will provide the vehicle with trailer recognition and when required, stop the trailer’s park, brake and turn signal LEDs from blinking.
Any vehicle, (not just those built to the European lighting regulations) can tow a trailer that has a Busta 4.2 fitted.
Busta 4.2 is not to be fitted to a towing vehicle, as that vehicle will always (falsely) recognise that a trailer is connected.
Carefully read the instructions all the way through. If you feel that you are unable to perform any of the operations, please seek the help of someone who can. Refer to the ‘You will need’ list near the end and gather all the tools and materials to complete the installation before you proceed.
Busta 4.2 has a 600mm long (2ft) 7-core cable rated at 10 amps per wire. It is connected to the trailer’s LEDs using its Yellow (left turn), Green (right turn), Red (brake light), Brown (park/license plate light) and White (earth) wires. Each of the LED driver circuits is capable of driving up to 4 amps of LED current. Do not connect any lamps (light bulbs) to the LED driver circuits on the trailer. Print the plug and socket wiring page at the end. Identify the uses and colours of the wires on your trailer and write them down on the plug and socket wiring page.
Busta 4.2 can get very HOT when in operation. (Do not restrict ventilation to the Busta 4.2 nor mount it on plastic or any other heat sensitive materials)
Select a location to mount the Busta 4.2 (preferably high and dry and with adequate ventilation) that is within reach of the existing lighting wiring of the trailer. You may wish to redirect the existing trailer lighting cable to the Busta 4.2 mounting location you have chosen and then add a new cable from the Busta 4.2 to the vehicle. At the connection points, you will need to remove from both cable ends the minimum amount of outer sheath that is required to make all of the wiring connections. For a neater finish stagger cut the wires and remove only the minimum amount of insulation that is required to make the solder connections to the wires.
Disconnect the trailer from the vehicle and isolate any power sources in the trailer.
To the trailer LEDs - Fit the Busta 4.2 in the selected location and position the trailer’s existing lighting cable up to the trailer end of the Busta 4.2.
Connect the earth wire in the trailer cable to the White wire from the Busta 4.2 and solder together.
Connect the left turn signal wire in the trailer cable to the Yellow output wire from the Busta 4.2 and solder together.
Connect the right turn signal wire in the trailer cable to the Green output wire from the Busta 4.2 and solder together.
Connect the brake light wire in the trailer cable to the Red output wire from the Busta 4.2 and solder together.
Connect the tail/licence plate wire from the trailer to the Brown output wire from the Busta 4.2 and solder together.
To the vehicle end of the Busta 4.2 - When adding a new cable you will have to fit a trailer plug to the vehicle end of the new cable.
Connect the earth wire in the trailer cable to the White wire to the Busta 4.2 and solder together.
Connect the left turn signal wire in the trailer cable to the Yellow input wire to the Busta 4.2 and solder together.
Connect the right turn signal wire in the trailer cable to the Green input wire to the Busta 4.2 and solder together.
Connect the brake light wire in the trailer cable to the Red input wire to the Busta 4.2 and solder together.
Connect the tail/licence plate wire from the trailer to the Brown input wire to the Busta 4.2 and solder together.
You are left with two unconnected wires that go straight through the Busta 4.2 – Black and Blue. If you do not need these wires you may cut them back and leave them disconnected. Otherwise, connect them to the remaining wires in your trailer cable for whatever uses they will have.
Testing the operation of the trailer LEDs
For testing the operation of the LEDs, move all the bare soldered connections apart and into positions where they do not contact each other or any metal parts of the trailer. Reconnect any power sources in the trailer. With the vehicle ignition and lights switched off, connect the trailer to the vehicle. Switch the ignition on and check that any trailer LEDs that were previously blinking have stopped and the trailer telltale does now operate with the turn and hazard signals. Start the engine, switch the park lights on and operate the foot brake to check the operation of those LEDs and check that there are no lamp failure warnings. Refer to last page if there are. When all trailer LEDs are working correctly switch everything off and separately insulate the bare solder connections.
Insulate and seal (weatherproof/waterproof) the joins.
It is strongly recommended, to prevent liquid and dust entry into the cable ends, a small amount of silicone sealant be applied to all of the open ends of the cable outer sheaths. Push the sealant into the ends around the wires using a small screwdriver (or similar tool). It is recommended that an outer seal of self-amalgamating tape and/or heatshrink be placed over the joins to completely weatherproof/waterproof them. Check that, where required, the cable is securely attached to the trailer.
Always connect and disconnect the trailer with the vehicle’s ignition and lights switched off. Connecting or disconnecting the trailer with the vehicle’s ignition and/or lights switched on can cause malfunctions to be indicated, or unintended operation by some of the vehicle’s computer systems.
You will need a Busta 4.2 and:
Various hand and power tools, a test light, soldering iron and solder
Fixings to mount the Busta 4.2 and for attaching the cable to the trailer – self-taping screws, screws, nuts & washers, ‘pop’ rivets, ‘P’ clips etc.
Electrical insulating tape and water proofing materials – silicone sealant, heatshrink and/or self-amalgamating tape, liquid electrical tape, etc
Busta 4.2 is warranted against defects in parts and manufacture for two years from purchase. All care is taken during manufacture to seal each unit to the IP-68 rating. However, due to the severe operating conditions in which it can be used, it is not warranted against internal or external corrosion, or any damage caused by liquid or dust ingress once it has been put into operation. It is strongly recommended that you regularly check the assembly for possible liquid and dust entry points (nicks, cuts, abrasions, etc.) and seal any openings with silicone sealant to prevent the ingress of any liquid or dust as entry could eventually work its way along the inside of the cable and corrode the wires and electronics. Please return Busta 4.2 to LAB Electronics for damage assessment and repair, as there are no user serviceable parts inside.
Busta 4.2 does not conform to E/ECE/324 – E/ECE/TRANS/505 regulations as it does not monitor the trailer’s turn signal LEDs and is therefore unable to inform the driver if a fault is present by turning off the trailer telltale in the instrument cluster. The onus is always on the driver to check that all of the vehicle and trailer lighting is functioning correctly.
A trailer lamp failure warning appears in the vehicle when the park and stop lights are used.
As the lamp check modules in most vehicles do not have the functionality to check a trailers park and stop LED circuits the internal load resistors inside both the Busta 4.2 and Euro have been fitted but are not connected. These load resistors develop quite a bit of heat and waste power, and as in most cases, they are not required, they have been left unconnected.
If you do receive a trailer lamp failure warning, you will have to carefully undo the cable gland tail and rubber seal, remove the two screws on the trailer end of the unit and access the three wires inside of the unit at that end. If you feel that you cannot perform these operations, please locate someone that can.
On the trailer end of the unit undo the cable gland tail – Grip the 19mm (3/4in) body nut of the cable gland with a THIN spanner, so that it will not rotate on the end plate and break the silicone sealant seal. Loosen the tail with another 19mm (3/4in) spanner. Once loosened undo the tail completely by hand and slide it along the cable away from the body.
Remove the black silicone sealant from the two screw holes in the trailer end plate with a hobby knife or similar tool. Remove the two screws from the end plate and check that the O-ring seals under the screw heads are still there. To access the rubber seal carefully move the end plate a short distance along the cable then move the end plate back against the case of the unit, grasp the seal and slide it along the cable as far as you can away from the body. Move the end plate along the cable as far as you can away from the body. Check that the sealing gasket on the end plate is not damaged.
Fish out the three insulated wires with pre-stripped ends from inside the unit. The White wire has an end cap fitted. The Red and Black wires have plastic sleeves fitted over the bare wires at their ends.
The White wire is the earth wire.
The Black wire is for the park circuit load resistor(s) – one resistor for the Mk4 and two resistors for the Euro.
The Red wire is for the stop circuit load resistors – two resistors in all units.
If you have a lamp failure warning only on the trailers park circuit then connect the Black wire to the White wire.
If you have a lamp failure warning only on the trailers stop circuit then connect the Red wire to the White wire.
If you have a lamp failure warning on both the trailers park circuit and the stop circuit then connect all three wires together.
Un-screw the end cap from the White wire and remove the sleeve from the Red and/or Black wires, straighten the bared wire ends and twist the ends of the required wires together and screw the end cap from the White wire over them to terminate the required two or three wires you have twisted together. If only two wires have been terminated leave the sleeve over the remaining unused wire, if all three wires have been terminated the plastic sleeves are no longer required, Please dispose thoughtfully.
Place a small amount of neutral cure silicone sealant around the surface of the end plate gasket and refit the end plate using the original screws. (check that the O-rings under the screw heads are still fitted.) Place a small amount of neutral cure silicone sealant (black) to cover the screw heads as they were originally sealed. Slide the rubber seal along the cable and into the cable gland. Hand tighten the tail onto the cable gland. Use two 19mm (3/4in) spanners, one THIN one on the nut, to tighten the tail onto the gland without breaking the silicone sealant seal between the cable gland nut and end plate.